20 notes app is back

hi! happy sunday, here is everything i wrote down in my notes app about fashion industry things

flip-flops are the shoe of the summer — credit to the row, who showed them on the runway last year.

jonathan anderson’s dior was designed for the marc forné man, but the men’s vic who actually buys the items looks a little different.

lya’s watch party was beautiful and spontaneous and deserved all the media attention.

love what’s happening at wsj.

kind of hard to get someone for this vogue appointment — head of editorial content is a step down if you’re an eic? how’s the paycheck?

a certain pr mogul who’s always living large is late on paying wages. an ex-employee just won a lawsuit against him after being fired without grounds, and it has to be paid in instalments.

if you were surprised at kim jones collaborating with aman, you have not been paying attention to his trips lol.

adidas bought one of its ambassadors a magazine cover and it looks great.

i am not doing “takeovers” (come with me to the blah blah show) for media outlets anymore since last year, because it kind of signals you only got invited to the show in return for doing a takeover.

i don’t think berlin fashion week is the new london, but it’s a great moment — especially since the copenhagen buzz has almost entirely died down within two years. and who doesn’t want a free trip to berlin with travel and accommodation covered by german taxpayers!

the pharrell x lv story has kind of died down within two years… what is there to talk about? does he need a big collab to inject some storytelling?

hope you bought the vogue italia vittoria cover because i did the cover interview!!!!!!

you can buy feed posts and online articles from bof and vogue the same way you can buy a print ad — why is this still not common knowledge to everyone?

generated “media value” is a scam and not real — think about it like the valuation a vc gives an over-inflated startup in the red. a fashion show, a bezos wedding — this “earned media value” means little. just because there are millions of eyes on something doesn’t mean there’s added value.

rick turned down a skims deal (allegedly).

i loved the cbk discourse — and the empty birkin. i say this every few weeks, but influencers (especially male ones) doing bag activations with empty bags is embarrassing. takes one second to stuff it with paper. you don’t get it.

will luca de meo get kering out of its flop era? it’s my worst-performing stock in the last three years.

i am a jacquemus hater at my core, but this was his first good show since la bomba. however, the only jacuemeh items i see on the street are worn by muscle gays in j-logo bucket hats, so there’s that.

been talking to a lot of frustrated chanel talent. years of working with them for free, turning down other brands and gigs to stay a chanel girl — and now suddenly they work with people they swore they’d never work with, and gift everybody! womp womp.

i would like to see an instagram or blog dedicated to fashion industry street style again — no one dressed by brands. the hours i used to scroll on aks to see what market editors and stylists were wearing…

really sorry but… did awge’s last runway collection even get produced? that show was a year ago and now we’ve just had the second one, but i never saw the first show pieces in stores. is this one big hobby? what’s going on here?

lots of willy chavarria discourse — saying something, doing something, gets more criticism than silence? why?

will milan men’s fw go down next?

telfar’s nyc show looked so fun.

i need marc jacobs to get another gig. he still has it in him. let go of the nails, please, but he can still do it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

can’t wait to get my hands on make it ours by robin givhan.

still don’t understand what exactly ee72 does, but it looks fab lol.

very, very excited about this vanity fair redo.

loved the vogue australia cover with lorde — very her vibe, very cool.

who will giorgio appoint to help him?

still thinking about the white hats from the prada men’s runway.

loved the brad pitt fashion discourse, but tbh he was always a fashion guy — sometimes with very out-there looks. so idk what anyone is surprised at. fashion is a tool and starts conversation (maybe also as a distraction from other things going on), so it’s working.

naomi campbell is a doctor?

alaïa doesn’t allow its stockists to put the brand on sale, but if it doesn’t sell, it ends up on the outnet.

hyped to see this rider céline debut — my god i hope it’s good. but he has an amazing track record so far.

influencers at fashion week — i’ve preached this for years, but the fight for seats will become tough. there are nba players and actors, all sorts of celebrities willing to fly in — so what’s your usp?

influencers no longer sell clothes at fashion shows (which was their main selling point), as now brands are dressing the entire front row. that benefit has pretty much diminished — even the most uninformed watcher now knows these clothes are loaned.

if you don’t have something unique about you (an editor role, a podcast, a magazine, a dj gig, some kind of artform), i would look elsewhere — not fashion shows. crowded marketplace.

cnn made calls to industry people about that dog rumour — now i’ve heard a fashion critic made it all up? tbc.

so… kate moss had a beauty or wellness brand called cosmoss, and it just entered liquidation? first time i’ve even heard of this. imagine if she had a cigarette brand though!!!!!

dior’s comms team wasn’t really allowed to push the best dior bag (lady) the last few years, for whatever reason. but now it was used for jw’s debut — even for celeb dressing — and i’m so excited that the lady gets her moment again.

i have never made it to a single one of those courreges raves because i don’t want to take a G7 40 mins outside of the city but it looks so fun and love the visuals this year, fashion “raves” by brands are mostly such a front because who actually will rave in loaned clothes that have to be returned the next morning but courreges always makes it look authentic (through the screen, like i said i never went lol so let me know)

bad move to move the GQ men’s party out of l’avenue, it was more like a club party now and not the feeling of a hangout turned into a party.

ok and anyway, i thought the timing of aw stepping down — probably the last eic of a vogue — was weird and badly communicated. in the middle of men’s, leaving editors scrambling to get their stories out (probably fighting for wi-fi at that nike event), and it did aw an injustice.

i have my fair share of opinions on some of her moves, but this magazine would have died without her — and i thought the rollout of this announcement was bad.

that’s all

bye