cruise collections

hey here is what i wrote down on the recent gucci, dior and chanel cruise collections. cruise launches mostly in november, when, in theory, rich people update their wardrobes for their caribbean winter vacations.

creative bankruptcy

plant obsessed

spectacle locations, snooze looks

one trick pony, or reliant

mermaid fetishes

let’s get into it:

gucci

is it “reliance on celebrity/influencer cameos” or is it just demna’s social circle and the people he designs for?

this cruise collection needs a lot of AC

what happens when irony and critique that were once a feeling, become core strategy of a mega brand?

the menswear is definitely gucciaga

the critique is that people can’t imagine who demna’s gucci woman is, but isn’t the purpose of typecasting for the runway to do exactly that? he’s showing you who he sees as the gucci woman quite literally

i need a number of what it actually

costs to sync the times square billboards

it’s a balance act to make these low-high looks look chic, and hard to image it being done in a tasteful way by the end consumer

i can tell from personal experience the heels so far have been extremely uncomfortable, and i find how the thigh high boots make the thin models legs look on the runway, it can’t be flattering on an average body type

the promotional videos were amazing

pretending i didn’t see the rick doughnuts

the menswear mostly tricky. yes there are rappers and beckham sons who want to wear this, but this is not for guys over 20 who simply want to dress well

makeup by sam visser amazing

very… everyone is sexy but no one is having sex

nobody needed backpacks on the runway, that could’ve been a quiet launch at the stores tbh

the cindy crawford dress to me could’ve been balenciaga couture tbh, same with maria carla’s fur stola dress, this looks like a scarf. i like that he stuck to the slinky dresses that swanepole wore, much like his debut F/W show.

the identity of the brand and what you can reference form it is more than a horsebit right

if you were hating on the tom brady moment i am afraid to tell you you are allergic to fun

into the leather cake box bags, fast food bags?

i overall think he’s getting there, i think the storytelling is back, it’s my personal problem that i don’t find LA people very cool, so this isn’t cool to me. either the LA-milan thing is a juxtaposition that works somehow, or it doesn’t.

dior

so much beauty on the runway, for those at home some of it fell a bit flat through the screen because of the lightning at LACMA

fantastic heels, especially the floral ones, bags so much better (i had not been such a fan of the “cigale” model that he first showed during his women’s debut, but with the attached flower brooches she looked fab), return of the saddle! it’s not like the saddle was gone (remains a huge seller for dior) but finally got a jonathan reiteration of the famous cadillac. and very fab special fabric lady diors.

what do you know about david geffen

fabulous ed ruscha collaboration, even though this cruise men’s pieces were far less exciting than the women’s looks. great hitchcock reference though

the philip treacy dior hats did not do it for me personally, saying this as a super fan. maybe for horse racing attendees? but love an isabella blow reference forever

very clear path of his world building with nature, there are always plants and flowers in there, this time also very cute bird and snail clutches, which he has done at loewe before obv but these are def a different price category, for the daughters of judith lieber fans. i wonder if he will introduce something else or stay in his gardening, animal era

very fab replacement of vogue runway by jonathan anderson posting his detail shots on instagram, i might stop paying because this was robbery

very little sexy

absolutely stunning opening dresses, and having sabrina carpenter (who was not on the face sheet of VIP guests) wearing it to the show already

was rihanna there?

pretty high brow guests with al pacino and co, much more actor focused compared to gucci in new york

wondering of all these hollywood references will be explored further by jonathan, in terms of a short movie or else

everyone has had their parties at the chateau before but that doesn’t make it any less fab

interesting to close with a relatively simple men’s look, wearing the “buzz” headpiece. jonathan is trying to be more than buzz and i think he is absolutely on the right track to make dior a house of beauty and freshness again.

chanel

i was at the edge of my seat for the re-see images from people getting into the details of it all.

what do you know about benoit meleard?

loved a LBD opening

as a karl lagerfeld ultra, sometimes matthieus use of 20 different patters and materials within one collection, compared to lagerfeld who often explored one colour, one theme much more visibly obvious and easier to digest in one show, is a bit overwhelming. i think this is still very much a designer who is exploring the insane capabilities of the house he has been handed, so why narrow himself down, it’s understandable. however when i walk about old chanel collections, they are easier to reference (supermarket, beach, chalet, versailles) and remember. the future is not one cohesive collection where everything explores the same topic, but sometimes it makes it harder to find the essence of it

overall such a fun collection, i wonder if the client actually IS that fun?

the finding nemo cc bag, the beach hats, the feathers

besides reporting on what bags asap rocky is wearing to the shows, chanel has a little less pop culture moments than dior. yes yes everything is intentional, they reply more on traditional hollywood actresses but i’d love a little pop princess moment

it’s rare for me to look at a show where i would not wear any of it at all but still heavily enjoy the world building

loved a natasha poly on the runway, and the chilli earrings!

like 30 different bags were introduced

i have not been a fan of the very simple chanel bags of the recent months that were clearly a commercial hit, so very happy to see extremely special chanel flap bags again, with embroidery and the matching one of the fabulous orange look

and then idk if this is worth the mention even but

i have no comments on the met gala except for that i need everyone to stop speaking on behalf of bhavitha, who clearly has no speech impediment