major projection alert

why do we all somehow still have this attachment (or extreme emotional reaction) to what we think vogue, specifically american vogue, has to be? I don’t know anybody that buys the physical magazine anymore, or has a subscription, none of my friends care about who’s on the cover, nobody studies the masthead, the opening ad spreads, the fascination of the magazine’s current state has vanished from our fashion zeitgeist conversations. I do not dream to work there anymore like i did ten years ago and often deem it irrelevant when it comes to setting the tone. but if that were true, why do my eyes roll to the back of my head when I watch video interviews about “new” approach, one of openness and relatability, why do i get so offended if i say vogue doesn’t mean anything anymore?

I have an inner conflict on gatekeeping and snobbery in fashion that I want to elaborate on. I hope that in my career, I get to lift the curtains to an industry that has given me everything (money, anxiety disorder, amongst a few of them), and talk openly to whoever wants to listen about how things work, how to make things work, in fashion. I want everyone who dreams of entering this industry to be given a fair shot, and not just those who have financial backing or certain family backgrounds. I want to be an active anti gatekeeper. (that also means talking about horrible payment, hours, having no human resources departments, bullying, etc etc etc). gatekeeping means telling people they don’t belong. I also believe that man made luxury (a product, an experience), cannot be for everyone, that would be an oxymoron. I myself do not consume most of the luxury items that i speak post or write about. I believe a high fashion magazine can be bought and enjoyed and admired by everyone who wants to consume its contents, but the contents shouldn’t be made by everyone. print does not sit on a throne anymore, we all know that. the budgets aren’t there anymore, we know that, too. but they aren’t going to get any better if there isn’t a thrive for excellence. when everything becomes relatable, we flatten the fantasy. and I only wanted to be in this industry because of the fantasy. i grew up on these incredible chic, intelligent (and often pretty flawed) humans that shaped my idea of fashion, that inspired me with what they had to say and how they interpreted the fashion geniuses’ work. I want to be awed, i want to be shown what’s possible. if everything and everyone is “just like you”, where is the elevation? relatability culture emerged for the right reasons, because fashion has an inclusivity problem; racially, economically, socially. but the solution doesn’t have to be aesthetic flattening? I think it is possible to open the doors without lowering the ceiling. and that is how i am so frustrated with the basicfication of vogue. I want to be in awe of someone’s fabulous outfit in the front row, I want to think how does she do it all, and look so put together. that doesn’t mean I want to erase someone’s human aspect. but i am the way I am for example because I had so many fabulous people, full of character and ideas, to copy! I want to be intimidated, in order to have a reason to grow. I want an institution, I want cultural cathedrals! I want fantasy. I want structural access to everyone, but not aesthetic mediocrity. I am also aware that this entire text is projection. like grief? it’s getting to the place, the dream, and realising that it’s not what you thought it would be, so it’s up to you (in this case, me) to shift your (my) dream, to expand, to look elsewhere. humans orient themselves through vertical structures, it’s normal, and vogue used to be the north star. and coming to terms with it not being that at all anymore, is losing a reference point. and instead of projecting and eye rolling, maybe we move on? find conviction, risk, beauty, somewhere else? it would be more productive. but i re watched the september issue last night for the 100th time and felt nostalgia (not of the hirachy!!!!! of the dream!). if the cathedral collapses, who builds the next one?